N scale switch engines


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Once you have laid down all the scenery on your model train layout, the next thing is to run some trains. You will need a collection of N scale locomotives to haul freight and passengers around your model railroad track. Whether you prefer steam or diesel, you will find there is a wide array of N gauge railroad equipment available.

All North American and European engines designed for N scale layouts are built to a ratio of scale.

n scale switch engines

That means if a part on a real locomotive were inches long, then it would be one inch on the model. Some model train equipment made in the United Kingdom uses a ratio instead. If you are modeling narrow gauge railroading operations, then some Japanese companies produce scale equipment for use with models of 1,millimeter gauge lines.

Some lightweight model railroad engines have small bits of rubber wrapped around their metal wheels to help them better grip the rails. These provide additional traction, so you can haul more rolling stock on a single train.

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You will find them on steam engines as well as miniature diesel rigs. If you are collecting or restoring vintage N scale train equipment, then you might want to have a supply of extra traction tires on hand. Scale railroad engines should work just fine on nearly any kind of track. Whether you build your layout on top of a traditional cork roadbed or use plastic Unitrack, your engines only care about the distance between the two rails.

All track has to meet certain standards. Locomotive manufacturers adhere to these standards, so that any piece you add to your layout will work without requiring you to make any hardware changes. This also allows you to mix and match different track types so you can make your model railroad look however you want.

Layout builders collectively refer to real mainline equipment as the prototype. This makes sense because any miniature locomotive you might have is based on a much larger prototype design. If you see the word "prototypical" on packaging, then you are looking at a detailed product that represents an exact piece of equipment a real railroader could operate at one point or another. Skip to main content. Shop by Brand. See All - Shop by Brand.Z Scale These powered locomotives, two A-units and two B-units, are both painted green and black w.

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Built by EMD the F7 was originally. Built by EMD the F7 was ori. After Amtrak began operation in Z Scale The Santa Fe was noted for long strecthes of running where speeds over mph was authorize. Built in the early. Built in the. These locomotives w. Z Scale Railfanning during the early days of Conrail saw a number of old locomotive models still sla.

Z Scale These powered F7 A and B unit locomotives are painted red with black roof and yellow letteri. They are painted black. Z Scale. The units. Z Scale This F7 A unit is painted black with red bands and white stripes. The Rock Island lettering. Z ScaleThese A unit and B unit locomotives are numbered and 22 respectively.

The Southern Pacific, now the Union Pacific, was one of t. Painted yellow w.

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Z Scale The dark green F7 A unit locomotives are lettered and striped in orange. Bythe two re. They are pain. Home Locomotives Products.

n scale switch engines

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Civil War Era Cars. Train Sets. Kit Structures.Check out this link on the NMRA site. There is a whole lot more info as well on the site.

n scale switch engines

A lot depends on what you are running. For my layout, I'm going with 16" radius curves.

What are the best N scale manufacturers

But I'm running short steam and old diesels along with 70' passenger cars and 40' box cars of which the minimum is My arms got too short so I've switched to G scale. Old steam and early diesel are my choice of loco. Scratch built is better. About two layouts ago, I built a fairly modern day layout with a 15" minimum radius.

When I planned it I thought it would be fine but in the end I wasn't pleased with how the passenger cars looked on the 15"" radius. The standards are certainly a good guide but in the end, only you know what you can live with as far as "looks".

Equipment runs quite fine on 16" but if you are running long passenger cars or modern, longer equipment, it still won't look quite right. I would think going up to 18" would be better.

Waaaaay back when, Joe F penned an article covering some quite effective guidelines for curve radii, well worth a read Actually i'm reading all back issues. Now that you mention it i remember that one i will take another look. My widest sections are 36 inches. Why 17 Inches? Twice 17 is 34 thus I should have 1 inch of clearance on either side of the tracks. For most of us, bigger is always better but sometimes reality dictates what you'll run.

I run all modern equipment, including SD90's, autoracks, etc. Would my layout running look better with lets say 20 inch radius - Yep; but reality can be a demanding mistress so I went smaller. And I would have gone smaller yet again if I couldn't run 17 inches.

In contrast, my former "home" layout was this 2'x4' Mt. A good balance is 15"" R curves, though it really depends on what you want to run through them. Most of the curves on my layout are set at 18". I have one that is 15" and it really is to tight for modern length cars. There is more to consider than how they look. Some of the big steam engines and bigger diesels need huge radiuses or they will bind between the drivers and derail don't ask how I know this!

And don't believe the advertisement data for minimum radius. We bought a Mountain 8 driver engine and the catalog said one minimum radius and the web page said another. The other problem is that the body of the cars may bump into each other as they swing through the tight radiuses. That one is easier to fix with a longer throat coupler if you can get them. The bottom line, if any engines or cars are big driver count or lengthis use the biggest radiuses you possibly can and select cars and engines that will work.

Question the advertised minimum radius specs.Also these two are compatiable with each other but not with ones I recomended.

n scale switch engines

I have a large i. If your going with a small layout this will also limit your purchasing. NCR and Digitrax are two you will see at most Clubs. I became an N scaler 10 years ago, and the N scale market, in terms of quality and quantity, has never been better.

N scale is really just a smaller version of HO scale these days. I really wouldn't worry about "what is the best manufacturer" because a lot of manufacturers, even some of the old ones, are coming out with better-quality trains. Instead, just try to avoid anything manufactured before and you'll be just fine. Sir Madog Have you noticed you are responding to a 13 year old thread? Hah hah. Yes they have. There are a couple of newer N scale companies that have sorely tempted me - they are Trainworx and Wheels of Time.

They make stuff I would love to have if I were in N-scale. Sir Madog Things have moved along quite a bit since the thread was started. Still Atlas locomotives is the best of the best as far as reliability and quality. I been out of N since but,keep up with the new models. Kato could be better if they had a wider range of locomotives and their NW2 is on the noisy side. I will admit it was a smooth runner.

My plans of buying 4 fell through due to the trucks. I was disappointed as I looked forward to those Geeps. Check out our. Login or Register. Latest Headlines. Popular Topics. Model Railroading Tools. Model Railroader. Model Railroader Video Plus. Latest User Videos. New Products. In Our Store. Current Issue. What are the best N scale manufacturers views.Im curious as to the lifetime of an engine motorif say you run it an hour a day every day? Also do they put coreless motors in model train engines or do they all have brushes?

N Scale Diesel Engines

As far as lifetime, it's part initial build quality, and part how you take care of it. If you keep hair, dust, etc For example, my very first engine, a Life-like Santa Fe GP a cheapo Proto No-thousand as Doctorwayne says ran for 10 years, and got a lot of mileage from me using it, because it got taken care of.

Any good engine should go for a while if you take care of it. Its why old Athearn Blue Box locos are still sold for a good price. Modeling whatever I can make out of that stash of kits that takes up half my apartment's spare bedroom.

Decades at least for motors. The carbon brushes are equally long lived, and you can replace them if they ever wear down. The antique Alnico magnets used in old open field motors can loose their magnetism over time, but you can replace them with nyeodium supermagnets. The newer can motors use ceramic magnets that keep their magnetic strength pretty much forever.

I don't understand why anyone bothers with "coreless" motors for model railroading. A coreless motor is built without an iron core to the motor armature, making the armature lighter and able to switch from forward to reverse in milliseconds rather than tens of milliseconds.

This is of interest to people building electronic servomechanisms, but it doesn't help model railroad locomotives. In fact we usually add heavy flywheels to our motors to smooth out their running and hold enough kinetic energy to pull the locomotive over a small dead spot in the track.

Which totally defeats the reason for building a light armature coreless motor. It is possible to build a small brushless DC motor but I never heard of anyone using one in a model railroad locomotive. David Starr www.

Built sometime between the late '40s and when I got it, used, inthis John English Pacific is still running, although it's undergone several cosmetic make-overs in that time It's currently out of service for another makeover, but is still running with its original open-frame motor, and is a very strong puller.

I may replace the brass drivers only to eliminate tread cleaning, as the brass treads oxidise quite rapidlyand might even install a can motor and NWSL gearbox - not because of any dissatisfaction with its operational capabilities, though, but simply because I can. The tender shown is mostly styrene, and was scratchbuilt, while the vestibule cab is a plastic I couldn't afford the brass version kit from Kemtron now Precision Scale Co.

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Well my Fleischmann engine from the late 50's still works like a charm. This after my brothers and I used to play with our trains on the floor and crash them into each other and never did any maintenance on them. So I would say a good engine will run forever. Evidently they will outlive me,good to know they will keep on chuggin. I thought the brushes would wear out in a few years. I don't know about other manufacturers, but if you have an Athearn, you can buy brushes, and the springs.

My experience is that they last until they fall to the floor. Fortunately that has not been a common occurence.EMD's NW2 switcher's lifetime was nearly cut short just three years after its introduction, with the establishment of the War Production Board inwhich dictated that EMD was to halt all production of switching locomotives, manufacturing only road diesels during the years of to However, such was the popularity of this end cab switching locomotive that after the restriction was lifted, the NW2 sprung back as many railroads placed orders for this little hp powerhouse; today these locomotives can still be found enjoying continued service in rail yards.

Kato's own N scale NW2 replicates each and every rivet of prototype detail with pinpoint precision, while emphasizing low-speed, high-power pulling. It also features directional headlights without any of the lightpiping equipment intruding on the interior cab detaillow profile wheels, illuminated numberboards, and Kato magnetic knuckle couplers.

Prototype Information:. Sophisticated lightpiping keeps the visible cab interior free of lighting equipment. Available Paint Schemes; click for higher resolution images.

Home N Scale Locomotives. Burlington Northern. Northern Pacific. Union Pacific. Santa Fe. Road Number.


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